Its Italian cousin, mortadella, reveals the product’s heritage: a proud, flavorful sausage from Bologna, Italy, speckled with cubes of fat, peppercorns, and sometimes pistachios. American bologna, by contrast, is streamlined and homogenized, built for uniformity and affordability. Read the label and you’ll see the truth: spices, sweeteners, and emulsified meat—not a health food, but not a mystery monster either, just a processed comfort we’ve chosen to both mock and keep eating.
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