That means removing shingles, prying siding loose, and then removing and replacing the step flashing. It’s that simple. But occasionally a roofer forgets to nail one in place and it eventually slips down to expose the wall.
Don’t Count on Caulk
Rarely does caulk or roof cement cure a leaky roof — at least for very long. You should always attempt a “mechanical” leaky-roof fix whenever possible. That means replacing or repairing existing flashing instead of using any type of sealant as a leak-stopper. Use caulk only for very small holes and when flashing isn’t an option as a leak-stopper.
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Fix Small Holes
Tiny holes in shingles act as sneaky sources of damage because they can cause rot, a water penetration and other problems for years before you notice the obvious signs of a leak. You might find holes left over from a removed satellite dish or antenna-mounting brackets or just about anything.
And exposed, misplaced roofing repair nails should be pulled and the holes patched. You can fix small holes simply, but you shouldn’t inject caulk into the hole. You fix this leaky roof problem with flashing.
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Leaks Around Brick Chimneys
All kinds of bad things can happen around brick chimneys. Too many, in fact, to cover in this article. Galvanized-steel flashing around chimneys can rust through, particularly at the 90-degree bend on the chimney’s downhill side.
Execute a quick but fairly long-term fix by simply slipping new flashing under the old, rusted stuff. That diverts any water that seeps through and solves the issue. The best fix, though, lies in cutting a new saw kerf into the mortar and install a fresh piece of flashing.
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Loose Gutters
Years ago, spikes and ferrules were a common method for hanging gutters. They do the job all right, but eventually the spikes work themselves loose. Pounding them back in becomes a temporary fix at best. One way to make sure your gutters don’t fall off the house is to install fascia hanger brackets. They install easily: Just hook the bracket under the front lip of the gutter, and then screw the other side of the bracket to the fascia.
Leave the old spikes in place—a spike head looks better than a hole in the gutter. If your shingles overhang your fascia by a few inches or if you have steel roofing, buy the brackets with the screws built in (the type shown here). They cost more, but the head of the screw remains a couple of inches away from the fascia, making them a lot easier to install.
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Water Gets Behind the Gutter
If you find water dripping behind your gutters, it’s probably because it was installed without any flashing over the back of the gutter. Adding a gutter apron prevents the dripping. Created from a bent piece of flashing, a gutter apron tucks up under the shingles and over the gutter. Home centers sell gutter apron in 10-ft. sections. You may have to temporarily remove your hangers as you go, or you can notch out the apron around them.
Once in place, fasten the apron with sheet-metal screws. If your roof has drip edge installed where the fascia meets your shingles with the gutter hung below the drip edge, get some rolled flashing and tuck it up under the drip edge and over the top of the gutter. Home centers sell rolls of 6-in. x 10-ft. aluminum flashing. Use tin snips to cut the roll into two 3-in. strips. If your gutters are steel, buy steel rolled flashing, because galvanized steel corrodes aluminum. Make sure you know how to pour concrete apron.
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Annoying Drips
Is the sound of dripping in your downspouts driving you mad? Eliminate the problem by tying a rope onto one of the gutter hangers and running it down into the downspout. Drops of water will cling to the rope instead of plummeting the whole length of the downspout and causing that loud dripping noise.
Adding a rope does restrict water flow, so think twice if your gutter tends to overflow or if your downspout clogs with twigs and leaves. Choose a rope made of a synthetic like nylon — a rope made from natural fibers will rot away.
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Make Repairs With a Slip Joint
If a tree branch falls on the last 4 ft. of your 60-ft. seamless gutter, you don’t need to replace the whole thing; just replace the damaged section. For white or brown gutters, you can easily add a section to the existing gutter. Most home centers sell white and brown sections of gutters as well as slip joints to tie them together.
For custom-color, gutters, a home center can special-order your color but not the slip joint to match. But don’t worry; you can make your own from a box miter, and box miters are available in every gutter color made.
When you buy the new gutter section, make sure you order either an inside or outside box miter at the same time. Cut a 3-in. section from the box miter with a tin snips, and you’ve got yourself a custom slip joint. Hang the new gutter next to the old one, and then slide the patch under the seam.
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Water Spills Over Gutter
Some roofs have long sections of valley that carry a lot of rainwater at high velocity. When that water comes blasting out the end of the valley, it can shoot right over the gutter. A diverter will help direct the water back into the gutter where it belongs. Fasten a diverter with a couple of sheet metal screws to the top of the outside edge of the gutter.
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Downspout in the Way
Are you tired of removing your downspouts every time you mow? Consider installing a hinge where the lowest elbow meets the section of downspout that runs into your yard.
Install it easily: Just cut the downspout at a 45-degree angle with a tin snips or metal-cutting blade, and then fasten a two-piece Zip Hinge with eight sheet-metal screws. The hinges come in white only, so you might have to spray-paint them to match.
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Leaky Gutters
Every connection on a metal gutter needs to be sealed: end caps, splices, drop outlets and miters. Buy a product that’s specifically formulated to seal gutter seams. Seam sealer can handle submersion for long periods of time. It also resists decay from sunlight, which it will get plenty of.
Most importantly, high-quality seam sealer is runny, so it can penetrate down into the seam for a durable, long-lasting connection. Most products refer to this property as “self-leveling.” And the runnier the better, so if you need to apply it on a cold day, keep the seam sealer somewhere warm so it stays fluid.
Remove as much of the old sealer as you can, and make sure the area you’re sealing is completely dry. Home centers usually stock seam sealer near the gutter parts.